Meet the Meaty Veggies
A host of chefs are creating vegetable dishes that are anything but dainty.
It’s been a decade of intense meat worship, but now chefs are procuring, preparing and serving vegetables with the same love and attention they previously reserved for Ossabaw pork or grass-fed marrow bones.
But the turn to the garden patch is leaving chefs with a conundrum: How do they get an all-veg meal to taste, well, meaty? “How do you make the ‘sink your teeth into it’ part of it, that makes you think, okay, I had dinner now?” says Clark Frasier, whose vegetable tasting menu will premiere at Arrows in Ogunquit, Maine, later this month.